MUSTARD MAYONNAISE
      2 qt Steamer clams, medium *
-------------------------LIME, CHIVE, MUSTARD MAYO-------------------------
      1 x  Egg yolk, large
      1 tb Lime juice, fresh
  1 1/2 t  Dijon-style mustard
    3/4 c  Oil **
    1/2 t  Salt (or to taste)
      1 pn White pepper, fresh
      2 t  Chives
    1/4 t  Lime zest, fresh ***
      3 dr Tabasco
  *     about 3 pounds
  **    corn, peanut, or other mild vegetable oil, NOT olive.
  ***   colored rind only, no pith.
  Steamer (or soft-shell) clams are naturally tender enough to be cooked,
  chilled, and sauced for a vivid and satisfying first course.  The sauce
  here is no kin whatsoever to the ketchupy stuff that too often swamps cold
  seafood; it's a good bet with cold shrimp or crabmeat, too.
  Small quahogs (on the East Coast) or Manila or other local hard clams
  (West Coast) may be substituted for steamers.  Because their shelled-out
  meats are firmer and their necks needn't be skinned, they tend to be
  neater morsels than the raggedy soft-shells, but steamers hold the edge
  from flavor.  Be sure to steam hard clams just until they begin to open;
  they can toughen in a flash if over-cooked.
  Boil half an inch of water in a large pot.  Add the well-scrubbed clams
    (see STORING & CLEANING CLAMS), cover, and bring to a boil over
  high heat.
  Uncover (to prevent boiling over) and cook, shaking the pot or stirring
  the shellfish whenever the foam boils high, for 2 or 3 minutes, or just
  until all the clams have opened.
  Pour the potful into a collander set over a big bowl; reserve the broth.
  When the clams have cooled, shuck them, pulling off and discarding the
  rubbery ring of membrane encircling the bodies as well as the loose, dark
  skin covering the "neck," or siphon.  Place in a big bowl.
  Strain the broth onto the clams through cheesecloth in a sieve; stop
  pouring before any sand appears.
  Stir and swish the clams through the broth to further desand them (some
  grains always survive the earlier steps).  Lift out the clams with a
  slotted spoon and set them aside.  Let the broth settle, strain it again,
  and repeat the clam rinsing and draining, twice if it seems a good idea.
  Chill the clams.  Refrigerate or freeze the broth for a future chowder or
  sauce.
  No more than 3 hours before serving, drain the clams again and fold them
  into about half the mayonnaise.  Refrigerate.
  To serve, divide the sauced clams among seafood cocktail glasses or small
  glass bowls.  Top with more mayonnaise; garnish with a leaf or two of
  green stuff -- parsley, coriander, watercress, or baby lettuce.
  LIME, CHIVE, & MUSTARD MAYONNAISE:
  Whisk together the egg yolk, lime juice, and mustard.  Whisking hard,
  begin adding oil a few drops at a time, beating in each addition
  completely before adding more.  After the mixture has thickened, add the
  remaining oil in a thin stream while beating rapidly.
  Season with salt, pepper, chives, lime zes, and Tabasco.  Taste carefully;
  the mayonnaise should be highly seasoned, so add more lime juice, mustard,
  pepper, and/or Tabasco if needed, but be cautious about the salt -- the
  clams will supply enough brininess for most tastes.  Refrigerate until
  needed.
  STORING & CLEANING CLAMS:
  Store fresh clams in the refrigerator with a light covering, not airtight.
  Clean them as close to cooking time as possible.  To clean, scrub the
  shells under the running cold tap with a vegetable or potato brush; give
  special attention to the hinges.  Cover with fresh water and soak for an
  hour or so, stirring them about once or twice.  Lift them out of the
  soaking water to leave behind the sand they will have shed.
   -- from MRS. WITTY'S HOME-STYLE MENU COOKBOOK,
      by Helen Witty
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