2 1/2 oz Finely chopped onion

     10 oz Corsely grated raw potato

           Fresh young lovage leaves
  1 1/4 pt Chicken or vegetable stock

    1/2 pt Buttermilk, more if desired

  Put the onion into a heavy-based saucepan.  Add the stock and bring to
  boiling point very slowly so the onion begins to soften a little.
  Meanwhile coarsely chop a small handful (5 or so tablespoons) of lovage.
  Add the potato and herbs to the pan and pour on 1/2 pint buttermilk.
  Increase the heat very slightly and bring the mixture to a bare simmer.
  Stir vigorously all the while as the potato starch will thicken the soup,
  which may stick to the pan base.  Half-cover the pan and reduce heat as low
  as possible once again.  Cook very gently indeed, stirring occasionally,
  until the potatoes are perfectly tender.
  Whizz the contents of the pan to a smooth puree.  Season with salt and
  pepper and with extra lovage if you like.  Whizz again and thin to taste
  with a little more stock or buttermilk.  Reheat gently or chill thoroughly
  before serving, then garnish with a swirl of buttermilk and a small
  flotilla of chopped fresh lovage.
  Source: Philippa Davenport in "Country Living" (British), May 1988. Typed
  for you by Karen Mintzias